Thursday, June 30, 2011

In Bruges.

Wasn’t that a movie? 
Haven’t seen it but I can imagine they made the most of the quaint little streets, lovely canals and bridges, medieval buildings and pretty parks. Bruges has been just the right size for us to get to know in the 10 days we were here. It is about the same size as Dee Why and has a population of just 20,000. We have walked, cycled and Segwayed our way about town every day and can now get around without a map! As long as you don’t venture beyond the outer canal and  occasionally look up to find out where you are in relation to the belfry then you will eventually arrive back at home.
Home for us has been a great 3 level house in the tranquil northern quarter of Bruges on BalieStraat. It was wonderful to have the space to spread out and be messy for just a while. Everything we own for this year fits in to our car and every now and then it feels good to take it all out and rearrange and take stock.  Mmmm, no room for that Lancel handbag or Philip Treacy hat!!
Our first few days were a little overcast but then summer arrived and we were kept awake at night by the airless heat and sunlight beyond 10pm.  Chocolate, beer, lace, swans, bears, Michelangelo’s Madonna, markets, waffles with more chocolate and pretty flowers, we did it all and still had time for a trip to Dunkirk in between.


Bruges was lovely, easy and bright. A beautiful, uplifting place to be and we will remember with our five senses; feeling the  cObBled stones under our bicycle wheel as we explored the town (Why do all the bikes have thin racing wheels that feel every single bump?), seeing the centuries-old Bruges skyline of spires and canal bridges (Boy are there a lot of these), hearing the sweet sound of the bells (every 15 minutes there are the sounds of bells somewhere in Bruges, thankfully our local Sint-Gillis Kerk built in 1258 starts at a respectable 8am), smelling the stagnant water of the canals ( catching a whiff of this foul air will quickly bring you out of the dreamlike romance that you are wandering in, but just as quickly it will vanish) and the unforgettable taste of Belgian chocolate from one of the 49 chocolate boutiques.( Mmmmmmm yum, we indulged in just one scrumptious chocolate each evening until we had a massive blowout on the last night when all hope for the diet was lost ) .




Swans on the canals

After the death of Mary of Burgundy in 1488, Bruges went through some troubled times. The townspeople, enraged by new taxes, rose in revolt and beheaded the bailiff, councillor and town administrator (whose name was Pieter Lanchals). According to legend, when the duke Maximilian of Austria regained power, the citizens of Bruges were ordered to keep swans or long necks (langhalzen- in reference to the administrators name) on the canals for all eternity as their punishment.
We met this family of swans on a landing by the canal and were attacked by the protective father swan.
 
These two are trying out the 'beheaded' look
Swans in the Springtime
Swan and cygnets - perfect


The Bear of Bruges




When Baldwin with the Iron Arm,          
 the first Count of Flanders , visited
Bruges in the 9th century, the first
creature he saw was a big brown bear.
After a fierce fight the Count killed the
bear and proclaimed the bear to be
the symbol of the city. Needless to say,
there are statues all over the city of
this now adorable and brave bear.

BruLee

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